A exposicão Alimentário – Arte e Construção do Patrimônio Alimentar Brasileiro esteve em cartaz na Oca do Ibirapuera até final do mês de março. A mostra gratuita reuniu 140 obras, objetos e documentos, abrindo diversas possibilidades de leituras sobre a relação entre arte, comida, história, “brasilidade” e gastronomia.
A exposição foi inaugurada no aniversário da cidade de São Paulo (25/jan), depois de passar pelo Museu de Arte Moderna do Rio.
Obra de Ernesto Neto na exposição Alimentário na Oca. Foto G.Bilo/Estadao
Segundo Camila Molina/Estadão:
Sem ser didática, mas repleta de textos e citações, Alimentário começa com um “prelúdio” mais literal ao exibir criações contemporâneas como Ruína e Charque, Porto (2001), de Adriana Varejão, uma peça escultórica na qual a pintora representa de maneira kitsch o fragmento de uma parede de azulejos quebrada de onde saem vísceras e pedaços de carne; ou a fotografia do trabalho em que Regina Silveira registrou, em 1976, um biscoito no formato da palavra “Arte” sobre um prato branco.
Entretanto, como define Jacopo Crivelli, “aos poucos, o percurso vai ficando ambíguo”. O diálogo entre as fotografias de 2008 da dupla Maurício Dias & Walter Riedweg e fac-símiles do livro Hans Staden: Suas Viagens e Captiveiro Entre os Selvagens do Brasil, do século 16, por exemplo, relaciona o funk carioca e o ritual canibalístico. Outra passagem interessante é a exibição do quadro acadêmicoNatureza-Morta (1891), de Estevão Roberto da Silva, com uma bancada de frutas naturais atrás da tela numa remissão fiel à original iniciativa do pintor na época. “Ele fazia isso para que o espectador pudesse sentir o cheiro do que estava retratado na obra”, explica o curador.
Uma riqueza ainda de leituras sobre o tema proposto pela exposição, que terá outras itinerâncias, é oferecida através de núcleos temáticos – sobre raízes indígenas, miscigenação e ciclos econômicos do café, do ouro e do cacau, por exemplo –, que traçam paralelos entre obras contemporâneas, moderna e históricas de nomes como Vicente do Rego Monteiro, Brecheret, Vik Muniz, Débora Bolsoni, Paulo Nazareth e Marc Ferrez.
“É um trabalho que remete à descoberta do Brasil pelas especiarias”, diz Jacopo Crivelli Visconti, curador da mostra ao lado de Felipe Ribenboim e de Rodrigo Villela, autores do projeto. A escultura molenga de Ernesto Neto (enriquecida pelas cores e cheiros dos condimentos) está, assim, abrigada em frente de uma reprodução da carta de Pero Vaz de Caminha na qual o escrivão relata – equivocadamente, contam os organizadores –, em 1.500, sobre o inhame e o palmito. “A origem de Alimentário foi pesquisar como os alimentos carregam conceitos, histórias”, afirma Ribenboim.
Alimentário – Arte e Construção do Patrimônio Alimentar Brasileiro
Oca – Museu da Cidade. Parque do Ibirapuera, portão 3, tel. 3241- 1081. 3.ª a dom., 9 h/17 h. Grátis. Até 29/3. Abertura domingo, 25, às 14 horas
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